
Keller, Thomas. The French Laundry Per Se. Artisan, 2020. ISBN 978-1579658496 400 pp. $75.00
****
Award winning Chef Thomas Keller’s latest book is part history, part philosophy, and over 100 recipes from the French Laundry (historically one of the best restaurants in America, with it’s whimsical, refined, carefully crafted modern cuisine) and Per Se (it’s sister restaurant in NYC, is no less exacting). It might also be an undefensive defense of the loss of a Michelin star or two.
The dishes in this lavishly illustrated coffee-table sized cookbook are intended for recreation by home chefs–or at least, home chefs who are fine dining devotees, have watched Food Network for ten+ years, own a sieve, and have the time, budget and equipment to devote to multistep recipes. The volume does recognize not everyone cooks en sous vide at home or owns a $400 hot/cold blender, and offers substitutions, alternatives, and scheduling help.
Each dish is a work of art, and the food photography is gorgeous. I doubt I will attempt to make a single thing, but I loving reading the thoughtful essays, reading through the recipes, and eating with my eyes.