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Seeberg, Uta. How Would You Like Your Mammoth? 12,000 Years of Culinary History in 50 Bite-Size Essays. 256 pp. ISBN 9781891011597. $19.95
Did you know that British fish and chips is a fusion cuisine, from the pairing of fried fish from the Jews of Portugal and Spain, and fried potatoes from Belgium or France? These and other fascinating tidbits of food history are conveyed with enthusiasm and knowledge in How Would You Like Your Mammoth? a chronological series of vignettes of culinary history. Each brief chapter focuses on a dish, element of a dish, or style of dining that moved the culinary landscape a little further along. There’s historical context, anecdotes, recipes and preparation instructions based on archaeological finds, recipes in pictogram and text format, and first person accounts. The descriptions of food contain less about taste than one would expect, with the author focusing on scent, texture, color, shape and size over flavor, even for more contemporary dishes. This may in fact just be a very realistic approach to the understanding we can’t know what the first salt, fish and rice tasted like the first time they were purposefully consumed toether during the Edo period that began in the early 1600s. The entries range from lamb stew from Babylonia, Bahn Mi from Vietnam, the All-American hamburger (USA), to afternoon tea in the United Kingdom, Pandemic dinners (no nod to sourdough), sauce (BUTTER!) in France, and the caviar and filets from whole roast beef joints served on the luxurious Orient Express speak to place and time as much as mummified beef ribs from ancient Egypt.
Food as art encompasses both Bauhaus and the first restaurant to receive three Michelin star. The essays are like clever little amuse-bouche: carefully selected, crafted with attentive, loving care and leaving you with an appetite for more. I felt many of the essays ended abruptly and with an odd tone, like an urgent need to be witty and leave the reader with something pithy or a slight tongue-in-cheek attitude that diminishes the lovely, descriptive sensory writing that preceded it. Enjoy with a slice of Toast Hawaii!
I received a free advance reader’s review copy of #HowWould YouLikeYourMammoth from #NetGalley, courtesy of The Experiment.